‘Grillz’ Are Back: But They Never Really Left

If you’ve been paying attention to music, fashion, or even TikTok lately, you may have noticed something familiar glinting back into the spotlight: grills. These bejeweled dental accessories, once the flashiest status symbol in early 2000s hip-hop, are once again front and center.

At the 2025 Met Gala, multiple artists flashed grills on the red carpet, capturing attention across social media. One clip went especially viral: TikToker Simply Anesha synced footage of the event to “Grillz” by Nelly ft. Paul Wall, Ali & Gipp—a song released nearly 15 years ago, but still instantly recognizable. That track wasn’t just a hit; it was a cultural marker, and it’s clear the moment it captured is resonating again.

When it comes to grills, Johnny Dang might be the most recognized name in the business—but he’s far from the only jeweler shaping the scene. Dang, a Vietnamese immigrant who came to the U.S. in the 1990s, began his career repairing jewelry in a flea market. His rise was fueled by skill, ambition, and perfect timing.

As Forbes puts it, “Johnny Dang went from repairing jewelry in a flea market to creating his own designer jewelry empire.” That empire includes a Houston showroom the size of a palace and a client list packed with music royalty: Kanye West, Jay Z, Nicki Minaj, Cardi B, Lil Wayne, and Rick Ross, to name a few.

Dang’s partnership with Paul Wall, a Houston rapper, helped bridge the worlds of Southern hip-hop and high-end custom jewelry. The two built a business that pushed grills into the spotlight, using innovative designs, high-quality materials, and Wall’s growing influence in the music scene. They introduced custom diamond fangs, colored gems, and even glow-in-the-dark options.

But Dang isn’t alone. Other jewelers like Eliantte, Ben Baller, Avianne & Co., and Iceman Nick also cater to high-profile artists, each bringing their own style and clientele. Ben Baller, for instance, made headlines with his work for Drake, Tyler, the Creator, and Kanye West. Avianne & Co., based in New York’s Diamond District, has worked with 21 Savage, Lil Durk, and Pop Smoke, crafting both grills and iced-out pendants.

Each jeweler has a signature. For some, it’s sleek minimalism; for others, it’s loud, sculptural, and fully encrusted in diamonds. What connects them all is their role as storytellers: crafting pieces that reflect an artist’s persona, success, or sometimes even pain. In a genre where personal expression is everything, the right grill becomes part of the artist’s message.

Grills may seem like a modern invention, but the practice of decorating teeth with metal stretches back centuries. The Etruscans and Mayans both placed gold and other metals on their teeth between 800 BC and 900 AD, often as a symbol of wealth and status according to Toothology. This history is important because it shows that the urge to turn the body into a canvas for power and style is nothing new.

But not all historical claims hold up. For example, contrary to popular belief, Ancient Egyptians did not wear grills. Highsnobiety confirms this is a myth. Still, that didn’t stop Katy Perry from channeling Cleopatra in her 2014 music video for “Dark Horse.” In that video, Perry wore a grill that reportedly cost $1 million, a price tag big enough to earn it a place in the Guinness World Records as the most valuable grill ever created.

The relationship between grills and hip-hop is deep, complex, and culturally important. From the start, grills were more than flashy accessories—they were bold declarations of identity, resilience, and style.

The trend traces back to the 1970s, when gold teeth became popular in New York neighborhoods, especially among Black residents dealing with the realities of poverty, limited dental care, and systemic neglect. Using gold to fill or replace damaged teeth wasn’t just practical—it was a way to reclaim confidence and dignity. That same spirit of turning hardship into art would soon define hip-hop itself.

Some trace the first grill in rap to Kilo Ali or Raheem the Dream, pioneers in the Atlanta rap scene.

As the genre evolved in the 1980s and ’90s, artists began to treat their mouths like another stage. Slick Rick, known for his extravagant fashion and storytelling lyrics, wore gold teeth on the cover of his 1988 debut album The Great Adventures of Slick Rick, transforming them into style symbols. Around the same time, other rappers like Big Daddy Kane, Just-Ice, and Kool G. Rap began sporting removable gold caps—pioneered by Eddie Plein, a Surinamese immigrant who changed the grill game.

Plein had his own origin story: after damaging a tooth, he was offered a gold cap but didn’t want a permanent fixture. Instead, he created removable gold crowns, which he sold out of a pawn shop in Queens before opening Famous Eddie’s. His designs soon found their way into the mouths of artists like Flava Flav, who rarely appeared in public without one.

As hip-hop spread across the U.S., so did grills—taking on regional flair along the way. In Atlanta, Eddie Plein opened Eddie’s Famous Gold Teeth, creating elaborate pieces for Southern icons like OutKast, Goodie Mob, Lil Jon, and Ludacris. In Miami, British DJ and producer Goldie sold gold teeth before returning to the U.K., giving rise to his own nickname.

Then came the early 2000s, a peak era for grill culture. Artists like Nelly, Paul Wall, and Lil Jon made grills almost a uniform in music videos and red carpet events. When Nelly’s song “Grillz” dropped, it wasn’t just a hit—it was a cultural moment. The video, featuring Paul Wall and Johnny Dang, helped turn grills into must-have items for anyone hoping to signal success.

But grills weren’t just for flexing—they became visual proof of rising status.

Today, grills continue to evolve with technology, taste, and personal meaning. They appear in pop videos, on runways, and even in museum exhibits. But their soul remains rooted in hip-hop’s origin story: turning struggle into shine.

Grills might raise eyebrows in school dress codes, but they’re not considered medically dangerous when worn properly. According to Colgate and the American Dental Association, grills are safe as long as they’re kept clean and aren’t worn for extended periods. Like any accessory, hygiene matters.

Grills have always been about more than fashion. They reflect resilience, creativity, and status. For some, they’re a way to celebrate cultural identity or express individuality. For others, they’re a reward—evidence that success was earned and should be worn proudly.

Today’s grill revival isn’t just nostalgia. It’s a reminder that trends may come and go, but symbols like these—crafted with precision, backed by history, and worn with pride—endure. The shine might fade for a while, but the story never does.